H&M Replaces Real Models With AI Doubles—Creatives Push Back

As fashion industry practices continue to evolve with technology, H&M has made a bold move that could reshape modeling as it is understood. The clothing giant recently announced plans to develop over 30 AI-generated "digital twins" of real models within a year, effectively replacing traditional photoshoots for their marketing campaigns. This initiative raises important questions about digital ethics and creative autonomy in an increasingly AI-driven fashion landscape.

The process begins with extensive photography sessions to capture real models' appearances and movements. Using computer vision and machine learning, H&M creates hyper-realistic 3D avatars that can mimic poses and expressions across online ads, social media, and e-commerce platforms. The company frames this as a cost-cutting measure that increases marketing flexibility without requiring models to be physically present.

However, the announcement has sparked significant pushback from creative professionals. According to one creative industry union, 54% of workers believe AI will negatively impact fashion jobs. The concern extends beyond models to makeup artists, photographers, and stylists who fear replacement. Working in collaboration with technology partner Uncut, H&M is pushing forward despite these industry concerns. 

“H&M’s pivot to AI models signals fashion’s digital frontier, challenging industry norms and raising ethical questions about creative work.”

Some critics view H&M's campaign as a strategic move to pressure labor and limit demands for improved working conditions. Mother agents, who typically earn 10% commission basis, are particularly concerned about how AI models will affect their ability to nurture and develop new talent in the industry. 

Earlier investments in development programs help models build distinctive portfolios that would be difficult for AI to replicate authentically. Traditional scouting techniques that evaluate aspects like body language and confidence become increasingly valuable as AI struggles to capture these nuanced human qualities.

Questions about fair compensation remain unresolved. Advocates stress the need for clear regulations regarding model consent and payment frameworks for AI likenesses. The pending Fashion Workers Act aims to require explicit model consent for AI usage, highlighting growing legal attention to these issues. 

Entry-level models face particularly high risks of replacement compared to established supermodels. For aspiring models, having strong representation becomes even more crucial as the industry navigates these technological shifts.

Proponents suggest potential benefits, including new revenue streams for models who can "be in two places at once" and increased diversity in fashion representation. 

As H&M moves forward with its digital transformation, the debate underscores a critical moment for creative professionals whose livelihoods depend on traditional fashion industry roles. The industry now faces the challenge of balancing technological innovation with protecting creative workers and maintaining authentic human representation.